Should you buy a high-mileage car?

A big number on the odometer puts many buyers off, which is exactly why high-mileage cars can be good value. The question is not "how many miles?" but "how were those miles driven, and was the car looked after?"

Service history matters more than the number

Auto Express points out that most modern cars are designed to last at least 150,000 miles240,000 km with proper servicing. Mileage alone is not a reason to walk away. What tells you more:

• A full service history. Stamps or invoices at the right intervals, showing who did the work, what was done and when. Main-dealer stamps are not essential; a good independent specialist is fine.
• Records of the big jobs. A car that has had large bills paid, such as a timing belt, clutch or suspension work, may have been well cared for. That work is already done.
• The kind of miles. Chase suggests looking at the quality of the miles, not just the number: highway or city driving, and whether the car regularly towed or carried heavy loads. Ex-company cars often cover long motorway distances and are serviced on time.
• Where it was driven. A vehicle history report can show if a car spent years in areas with salted winter roads, which can mean more corrosion underneath.

A neglected low-mileage car can be the worse buy. Cars that mostly sat still, or only did short trips, can still need expensive work. Chase notes that a car that sat idle for years may cost more to put right than its low mileage suggests.

How high is "high"?

Auto Express says a three-year-old car would typically have covered about 30,000–45,000 miles50,000–70,000 km, roughly 10,000–15,000 miles16,000–24,000 km a year. Well above that for the car's age counts as high mileage. Well below it is worth asking about too: check that the reading is genuine and that the car was not just left standing.

What to check

Follow our full used car checklist, and pay extra attention to these points on a high-mileage car:

1. Verify the mileage. Match the odometer against service invoices and history reports. In the UK, the free GOV.UK MOT history shows the mileage at each test, plus failures and advisories; lots of failures suggest poor care. In the US, a history report shows recorded odometer readings. See is a car history report worth it?
2. Look for wear that does not fit. Motorcheck lists a worn steering wheel, shiny seat bolsters, worn pedal rubbers and stone-chipped paint as signs of more miles than the reading suggests.
3. Ask about the timing belt. If the engine has a belt rather than a chain, ask when it was last changed and look for the invoice. Your owner's manual gives the interval. If there is no proof, assume it needs doing.
4. Test the clutch (manual cars). On the test drive, it should bite smoothly without slipping when you accelerate hard in a high gear. Ask when it was last replaced.
5. Listen to the suspension. Clunks or knocks over bumps, a floaty ride or uneven tire wear can mean worn shocks, bushes or joints.
6. Check for leaks and smoke. Look under the car and around the engine for oil or coolant leaks, and watch the exhaust on start-up.
7. Get an independent inspection. The FTC recommends paying an independent mechanic to inspect any used car and asking for a written report with repair estimates. You can use those estimates to negotiate the price.

Which costs to expect

Motorcheck names timing belts, clutches, tires, brakes and suspension as the parts whose costs rise with mileage. Unless the records show they have been done recently, budget for:

• Timing belt (cambelt). One of the biggest and most important bills; if it snaps, many engines are badly damaged. See our timing belt replacement cost guide.
• Clutch. Wears gradually on manual cars, faster with lots of city driving. See our clutch replacement cost guide.
• Suspension parts. Shock absorbers, springs, bushes and joints wear with miles and rough roads.
• Brakes and tires. Regular wear items on every car. Check how long brake pads last and how long tires last.
• Battery and fluids. An old battery, coolant or brake fluid may be overdue. See how often to change coolant.

Add these up against the asking price. If a car with no record of these jobs costs only a little less than one that has had them all, the better-documented car is usually the better deal. Our cost of ownership tool helps you compare.

When to walk away

• No service history at all, and the seller cannot explain why.
• Mileage that does not match the records, or goes down between tests.
• Warning lights on the dashboard, smoke from the exhaust, or a slipping clutch, with no price to reflect it.
• A seller who will not allow an independent inspection.